A low stone border between 15 and 30 cm in height is one of the most stable forms of garden edging for Canadian conditions. Dry-stacked fieldstone or limestone requires no mortar, allows water to drain freely, and tolerates the ground movement that occurs during spring thaw cycles across Ontario, Quebec, and British Columbia.
What You Need Before Starting
Before placing any stone, measure the bed perimeter and estimate the material volume. For a 20 cm tall border with two layers of 10 cm stone, a 10-metre run requires roughly 0.4 cubic metres of stone — about 600–800 kg depending on stone density.
Tools
- Spade and flat-bottomed shovel
- Garden rake
- Rubber mallet
- Carpenter's level (60 cm or longer)
- String line and stakes
- Wheelbarrow
- Safety gloves
Materials
- Fieldstone, limestone, or granite — collected locally or sourced from quarry seconds
- Coarse gravel or crushed stone for the base trench (20 mm diameter)
- Sand (optional, for levelling irregular base stones)
Step 1: Mark the Border Line
Drive stakes at each corner and end of the planned border. Run a string line between stakes at ground level. For curved sections, use a garden hose laid on the ground to define the arc before marking it with landscape paint or sand.
The string line establishes your working edge. Keep it in place throughout the project as a reference for stone placement.
Step 2: Excavate a Shallow Trench
Dig a trench 15–20 cm wide and 10–15 cm deep along the string line. Remove all grass roots and organic material from the trench floor. A clean mineral soil base reduces settlement and root intrusion under the border.
In areas with heavy clay soil — common in southern Ontario — add a 5 cm layer of coarse gravel to the trench bottom before placing the first stone layer. This improves drainage and reduces frost heave.
Step 3: Place the Base Layer
Select your largest, flattest stones for the base. Place them directly in the trench with their flat face down. The base layer must be stable and level — use the carpenter's level to check every metre of run.
Fill any gaps under base stones with small gravel or sand to eliminate rocking. A stone that moves in the base layer will cause the entire section to shift over time.
Step 4: Stack the Second Layer
Place second-layer stones so that their joints do not align with the joints in the base layer. This offset — called "running bond" — distributes load horizontally and prevents vertical cracks from forming.
Tilt each stone very slightly inward toward the garden bed (roughly 5 degrees). This batter keeps the wall stable under soil pressure from the inside.
Step 5: Fill and Finish
Once the stacked border reaches the desired height, backfill soil from the garden side up to the top of the last stone layer. Pack the soil firmly by hand to eliminate air pockets that settle unevenly after rain.
Place capstones — larger, flatter stones — along the top if available. Capstones add weight that holds the wall together and improve the finished appearance.
Maintenance Over Time
Inspect the border each spring after the ground has fully thawed. Some stones shift slightly through freeze-thaw cycles, particularly in the first two years. Reposition any displaced stones and re-level sections that have settled unevenly. Established dry-stone borders typically need minimal attention after the third season.
Common issues
- Leaning outward: base layer is not deep enough or lacks gravel drainage
- Frost heave: insufficient base depth for the local frost line
- Grass growing through joints: remove by hand or apply a weed barrier behind the base layer before backfilling
External reference: RHS – Raised Beds and Edging